Cosmeceuticals – medicine or cosmetics?

The desire of any woman to be young and beautiful is quite understandable and
justified. But to be beautiful at all costs, and especially at the price
own health, yet not an option. It is unlikely that such risks
are justified. Brings joy and pleasure from life
only beauty in tandem with health. For this reason, buying
next cosmetic skin care series you need to know on
what effect is worth counting on. Nobody wants to pay money
for advertising, everyone needs a real result and safe means for
skin. In order to make the right choice of cosmetic
means, it is necessary to clearly distinguish between cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Many not
understand these terms, confuse them, and sometimes identify them. let’s
Let us see what a cosmeceutical is and what its tasks are.


  • What is cosmeceuticals?
  • What makes cosmeceuticals from cosmetics?
  • The main advantages of cosmeceuticals
  • Exposure to cosmeceuticals
  • Cosmeceuticals and professional class products
  • The main ingredients of cosmeceuticals
  • Cosmeceuticals: Myths and Realities

What is cosmeceuticals?

Cosmeceuticals is the direction of cosmetology, which unites
pharmacology and cosmetology. These are cosmetic products.
characterized by certain advantages associated with their
real or perceived positive effect.


Cosmeceuticals offers not only to mask visible flaws
skin, but also effectively eliminate the cause of their appearance.
Cosmeceuticals manufacturers often state the similarity of their products with
drugs. Another term cosmeceuticals – therapeutic
cosmetics. Medical cosmetics is a cosmetic
drugs that include medicines.

What makes cosmeceuticals from cosmetics?

It is known that modern cosmetics are not
drugs. Their “field” of activity is the epidermis. They should not
penetrate the living layers of the skin. Therefore, cosmetics are not
affect significantly the condition of the skin and are not capable of radical
improve its performance. The main criterion for the quality of cosmetics
is its bacterial purity. That is, cosmetics are not
should contribute to the infection of the skin with various
microorganisms. With cosmeceuticals the situation is different. If in her
the composition are drugs, it requires a large
period of time for testing such drugs. It’s big
cash costs both in terms of research and in terms of
testing her actions. For this reason, the main task
cosmeceuticals now is to settle
legislative question regarding cosmeceuticals. AT
Currently, cosmeceuticals are not imposed by law in
separate category. However, despite this, is actively underway
Sale of the so-called “medical cosmetics”, which is often
identified with cosmeceuticals.

The main advantages of cosmeceuticals

Medical cosmetics appeared in the early 70s and was
intended for people with dermatological problems. The sick
the skin needed not only to be treated, but also to nourish, moisturize, take into account
its specific features that mass cosmetics are not able to
was to do. Medical cosmetics effectively solved the tasks that
dermatologists considered irrelevant compared to
dermatological diseases, and cosmetologists found them too
difficult and just could not cope with them. In this way,
cosmeceuticals – a certain line between cosmetics and medicinal
drugs. Nowadays, cosmeceuticals are developing rapidly,
after all, in its arsenal a lot of advantages that can attract
consumers with critical thinking. What are the
the benefits of cosmeceuticals?

  • cosmeceuticals are sold only in pharmacies;
  • consultations on the choice of therapeutic agents
    professional pharmacist, helping to make the right choice;
  • With the help of pharmacy brands, you can find products that can
    treat and confront dermatological diseases and
    simultaneously solve complex cosmetic problems;
  • Cosmeceuticals is a good value for money. Her
    concept of use is designed for what a person needs
    good result, not owning cosmetics
  • Cosmeceuticals manufacturers are investing heavily in
    research, innovative technology, saving on packaging
    and advertising. With all this, the quality and effectiveness of medical
    medications confirmed by clinical trials;
  • the production of medical cosmetics is strict
    control and high demands just like pharmaceuticals
  • pharmaceutical remedies are almost impossible to fake,
    it is a complex and irrational business that is devoid of
  • pharmaceutical cosmetics is unknown to the masses of consumers,
    there is a small amount of production, and the distribution process only
    through the pharmacy network, which makes it impossible to falsify medical

Exposure to cosmeceuticals

In the Russian Federation, it is common to divide cosmeceutical preparations into several
levels depending on their ability to penetrate the skin:

  • The first group includes drugs with large molecular
    mass that can only affect the top layer
  • The second group includes medicinal preparations capable
    effectively deal with age-related skin problems and at the same time
    treat skin from dermatological problems:
    acne, oily seborrhea, rosacea, rosacea. It is drugs
    from this group belong to professional cosmetics.
  • The third group includes drugs of the last generation capable
    affect all three layers of the skin: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.
    Cosmeceuticals in this group are not designed for
    everyday care and worth a lot of money. In addition, the components
    its constituents are subject to thorough research and
    regular clinical testing.

However, it should be noted that the corresponding gradation can not
find in any serious foreign source. Does not exist
no information on this matter as there is no such

Cosmeceuticals and professional class products

The most effective and popular are class drugs.
professional (second group of cosmeceuticals). They
possess specific qualities and certain characteristic

  1. lack of side effects;
  2. perfect ratio of active components eliminating
    simultaneously several dermatological problems;
  3. influence on all layers of the skin, and in certain cases on
  4. the impossibility of penetration of the components of the cream in the blood and
    no negative effect on other tissues and the whole body in
  5. the implementation of a therapeutic effect, not a masking effect (as in
    a case with mass and middle market class facilities);
  6. high or average cost;
  7. maximum allowable concentration of biologically active
    substances that contribute to its effective impact on the skin;
  8. use of high-quality emulsifiers, stabilizers, fragrances
    and preservatives.

The main ingredients of cosmeceuticals

The main components of cosmeceuticals strictly
balanced and carefully checked, because they have a healing
the effect is not each by itself, but in a joint effect. but
with a large variety of substances, there are still basic components,
part of the cosmeceuticals. These include:

  • vitamins;
  • retinoids;
  • peptides;
  • ceramides;
  • amino acids;
  • seaweed;
  • ANA- and BHA-acids;
  • collagen and elastin hydrolyzate;
  • bisabolol;
  • allantoin;
  • physical and chemical UV filters

Cosmeceuticals: Myths and Realities

However, there are a number of specialists who are very skeptical
refer to cosmeceuticals, claiming that their
therapeutic effects on the skin is greatly exaggerated. let’s
consider what their claims, and try to tip the scales in
anyone’s side.

Myth number 1. Only cosmeceuticals are able to work on the cellular

Immediately need to understand the concepts. What does working for
cellular level? Working at the cellular level means working.
inside the cell. Even the cosmetics that only affects
on the epidermis, works at the cellular level. Quite another thing
if manufacturers boldly said that their preparations
work at the level of living cells, that is, directly in
derma. However, none of the manufacturers makes such promises, so
how it should still be scientifically proven, and this is not quite easy. therefore
producers, like poets, use ornate words, metaphors,
finely thought-out marketing techniques forcing people to guess
and think out the next promotional steps. Thereby introducing the gullible
consumer confusion. After all, few consumers know
that parasitizing on the “work at the cellular level” brand and
“work in the dermis”, which is far from the same, manufacturers simply
lobby their products.

Myth number 2. Cosmeceutical preparations include biologically
active ingredients obtained by bio- and nanotechnologies.

The magic phrase “biologically active substances” of many
confuses people. What does “biologically active substances” mean?
Biologically active substances are a group of chemicals
which have high physiological activity in small
concentrations. However, do not be mistaken about the fact that
biologically active substances can only be rare
preparations or extracts from exotic plants. Biologically
active substances can be any substance with more than common
active action. That is, even chamomile extract is
biologically active substance, with the condition that the molecular weight
substances can bypass the protective layer of the skin. Main criterion
activity of a substance is not only in the substance itself, but also in
its ability to bypass the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

Myth number 3. Cosmeceuticals do not contain synthetic components.

All cosmeceutical preparations, like all cosmetic
preparations contain synthetically produced components, but this is not
makes them dangerous or harmful. We have already said that
Some components of cosmetic creams contain artificially
creating ingredients. And such components are no different from
natural, the chemical formula in both cases is identical. After all
natural is not a synonym for the useful, and synthetic is not a synonym
harmful. The origin of the substance does not determine its harmfulness or

Myth number 4. Cosmeceutical products do not cause allergic
reactions. That is, it is absolutely hypoallergenic.

The term hypoallergenic is a myth of our time. There is no world
no standards and gradations, classifications and methods
testing, allowing to consider one or another cosmetic
composition “hypoallergenic” Such a thing as “hypoallergenic”
does not exist. This is an invention of manufacturers and advertisers for
lobbying their products in the consumer market.

Allergic reaction is an unpredictable thing too
individual so that you can safely say that the whole
cosmeceuticals has a hypoallergenic property.

Any manufacturer can write on the label “hypoallergenic”,
because no one controls or prohibits such inscriptions. By
This is why there is a huge consumer market.
the amount of cosmetic products containing in its composition
substances that can cause an allergic reaction. Therapeutic
Cosmetics ideally should contain natural medicinal
components, but not only. Nobody canceled in the composition of such
cosmetics emulsifiers, dyes and preservatives that are
known allergens.

Just bona fide manufacturers add to their products.
less common allergens. Such products look like
outside the box, and her shelf life is much less.

Myth number 5. Cosmeceuticals effectively eliminate small
and large wrinkles.

Small wrinkles can eliminate any moisturizer,
if it contains active ingredients. Reason of appearance
small wrinkles on the skin – insufficient hydration of the skin.
In this way, the skin reacts to a lack of moisture. Large wrinkles
are formed on the site of mimic in the process of skin aging. Remove
large wrinkles are very difficult, nor the cosmetic cream of ordinary brands,
no cosmeceutical product is able to eliminate them. To fix
this skin defect can only be injection-based
botox or hyaluronic acid. And even injection procedures
eliminate deep wrinkles only for a while, so how to turn the time
back impossible. However, it is possible to prevent the emergence of new
Wrinkle literacy and timely skin care.

We reviewed the main myths among consumers
cosmetic products. Even if cosmetics are not always
meets the stated standards, this is not a reason for it
refuse. Modern cosmetics is designed to affect only
the top layer of the epidermis, whatever manufacturers promised. But also
that’s a lot. Professional cosmetics are really capable of
a lot, but only in the aesthetic clinic under close supervision
beautician. Cosmetics sold in the pharmacy, much higher
cosmetics class mass and middle market, but she is not capable
to create miracles.

We learned what a cosmeceutical is, how it differs from the usual
cosmetics and can it really eliminate skin blemishes. Our
the task is not so much to influence the opinion of the consumer as
make him think independently and not rely on ready
opinions and standard solutions from manufacturers, marketers and
advertisers. In conclusion, I want to say that regular care
skin care, timely visit to a beautician, balanced
food, good sleep – this is the guarantee of beauty and youth of our skin.

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