Nowadays, controversy continues around the question: is it capable
cosmetic cream penetrate the skin. Manufacturers
cosmetics answer in the affirmative,
specifying that a large role is played by the composition of the cream and its formula.
Opponents contradict them, referring to the structure of the skin and its barrier
– protective function. Who is right? In this article we will try
to understand this question, but first we start with the
the main structure of our skin.
- Skin structure
- The mechanism of action of the cream
- Ways to penetrate the cream
- Buy cream: what to look for?
- And only the dose makes it a cure …
- Why professional cosmetics
The skin is the largest surface organ of our body.
organism. What could be easier skin? After all, this body is always with us
in sight. But behind the apparent simplicity hides a complex and
multifunctional body with a wide range of physiological
functions and pathological processes occurring in it.
So, the skin consists of three layers:
- The first layer of skin is the epidermis or peel;
- The second is the dermis or the skin itself;
- The third – hypodermis or subcutaneous fat.
The epidermis consists of five layers:
- horny layer (surface layer);
- brilliant layer;
- granular layer;
- prickly layer;
- basal layer.
Each layer has its own tasks and functions. In the bottom layer
The epidermis is the basal or germ layer. It takes place
all metabolic processes are formed keratin, immune and
In the prickly layer are prickly keratinocytes, forming
several rows. Here the lymph flows, which transports to
cells nutrients and removes decay products from them.
The granular layer contains hydrophobic structures that
prevent the penetration of water into the underlying layers. In this layer
there are cells producing keratinization of the epithelium.
The brilliant layer is a uniform strip of pink color, consisting of
two layers of flat cells without nuclei and organelles.
And finally – the stratum corneum. The main task of the epidermis –
produce the stratum corneum. Horny layer performs barrier –
protective function and living cells has not. As the cell
moves to the top layer, it dies off or
keratinization Therefore, the stratum corneum consists of dead scales,
which constantly peel off and fall away. The thickness of this
The layer of all is individual and depends on the strength of the mechanical
load. The stratum corneum is a good barrier to
pathogenic microbes and toxins, but at the same time it is
an obstacle for nutrients from the cream.
All cells of the epidermis are organized in layers or layers. Thickness
epidermis layers are not the same in different parts of the body. For example, on
palms and soles of the feet are the thickest layer, and on the skin of the eyelids
– the thinnest.
The skin performs very important functions that regulate
vital activity of our body:
- protective function (protects the skin from the penetration of microbes,
viruses, harmful chemicals, water outside);
- thermostatic (regulates heat transfer: the radiation of heat and
- receptor (in the skin are numerous nerve
- immune (seizure, transport of antigens and the development of immune
As it became clear from the above, penetrate the skin with nourishing
substances from the cream is almost impossible. Also with age
thickening of the stratum corneum occurs. So how to be? Before
To answer this question, find out how creams work.
The mechanism of action of the cream
Remember! All creams act on the same principle,
regardless of their composition, components or price. Cream effect
only on the epidermis (surface layer of the skin), moisturizing it and
creating a protective film on its surface. The most expensive and important
the ingredients stated in the cream do not penetrate the skin, but
remain on its surface. And all because the cosmetic cream is not
is a medicine, it is intended to act only at the level
According to international law, all cosmetic
products that are certified as cosmetics, and not as medicinal
drugs affect only the surface layer of the skin. But
It turns out that many consumers, spending a lot of money on
the purchase of expensive anti-creepers — just not familiar with it
international law. And some manufacturers,
parasitizing on the brand collagen, elastin, or other popular
components, simply prey on consumer ignorance.
Having read to these lines, dear readers, do not be in a hurry.
This is the case, but there are some nuances. In our
time there are still methods that help creams to pass
through the protective barrier of the skin.
Ways to penetrate the cream
Method number 1. The destruction of the stratum corneum. If you treat the skin
special substance with anionic surfactants, allowing to remove
the entire fat layer, the flow of active ingredients into the skin
increase by 20%. Also, any chemical peel can destroy
hydrolipid mantle, which improves blood circulation and
provides better penetration of active substances into the skin.
Method number 2. Creams with essential oils. Creams with essential oils,
included in the cream are considered natural enhancers (conductors)
capable of carrying the active substances deep into the skin. Essential
oils have the ability to very quickly pass through the horny
layer, dragging the other ingredients. But three are important here.
of the moment.
- Essential oils that are part of the cosmetic cream should
to be natural. It should be said that in the market of essential oils
There are many fakes.
- The price of natural essential oils is very high, which makes
the final cosmetic product is fabulously expensive.
- For many consumers, essential oils cause the strongest
When buying a cream with essential oils should be considered
the above factors.
Method number 3. Using hardware technician. Hardware
cosmetology itself is a very effective method of influencing
skin We are talking about such hardware methods as: ionofares,
galvanotherapy, microcurrent therapy. Using hardware methods
It is possible to achieve penetration into the skin of the active ingredients by
microcurrent or ultrasound.
Method number 4. Nanotechnology. Theoretically, this method is very
attractive But in practice, achieve stability
nanoingredients is very difficult. Nanoparticles in a cream can change
its structure and interact with other particles. They
able to enter the bloodstream, which can cause undesirable
effects. There are also technical difficulties
which is still very difficult to eliminate.
Method number 5. The use of peptides. Peptides are compounds
which molecules consist of amino acids linked between
a peptide bonds. To date, cosmetics with peptides
is the most effective. Peptides penetrate the skin
due to its structure: sequence and a set of amino acids.
The ability of copper-containing peptides to penetrate the skin
well known. There is even regenerative technology,
based on the use of copper-containing peptides. They
trigger regeneration processes, activate fibroblasts,
promote the production of “new” collagen and elastin. Highly
effective and popular so-called cream “effect
Botox. “It consists of peptides that block
neuromuscular synapses. The effect of such creams is similar.
We considered the ways of penetration of cosmetic products in
skin If you carefully read into the cream and know some
nuances, you can get a reliable and effective drug.
Buy cream: what to look for?
Realizing that with cosmetic products is not so bad,
What to look for when buying a cream?
- Cream manufacturers have their own tricks. The composition on the package
cream according to the legislation of the Russian Federation must be described in Latin or
in English. Causes concern cream on the packaging of which
The composition is indicated in Russian.
- The list of ingredients is compiled by decreasing the amount of
component. That is, the water in the cream is always the most, it means
should always be a leader in such a list.
- Guards the cream if it contains too much
active ingredients: placenta extract, hyaluronic acid,
molecular oxygen, phytohormones, embryonic cells, coenzyme
Q10, fruit acids, collagen, elastin, vitamins, retinol. AND
again the question arises, how are these substances able to pass
through the protective layer of the skin, but the problem is not only that.
- For example, placenta extract is used in regenerative
technologies. This is a very effective anti-aging procedure, but
only when it comes to injections. In another case, in
cream should be echancers that can “push” active
substance behind a protective layer of skin.
- Embryonic cells in a cream is a pure marketing trick.
First, the use of human embryonic cells is prohibited.
worldwide. All fetal (from the Latin. Fetus – fruit) cosmetics,
which is sold on the cosmetic market – of animal origin.
And here a completely natural question arises, how is the living embryonic
cell can survive in cream? And if she is dead, then what is from her
good Embryonic cells must exist in a specific environment.
and stored at a certain temperature. They also need
food, only in this way it is possible to update them and
- In cosmetic cream there may be apple stem cells,
patented name – PhytoCellTec ™ Malus
Domestica. Such cosmetics really is. Therefore just
phrase embryonic or stem cells should
to alert. If we are talking about fetal cosmetics, then the packaging should
be a definite marker explaining that it is about drugs
animal origin. Marking may be like this: extracts O,
Placenta, Cutis, Hepar, Amnion, Liquor amnii (amniotic
fluid), placental proteins, fetal skin proteins and
etc. If plant stem cells are indicated
the patented name PhytoCellTec ™ Malus Domestica. But
again, how effective are these ingredients in the cream – the question
- Another marketing move manufacturers – molecular oxygen
in the composition of the cream. The Internet has long been the opinion that our skin
breathes, and molecular oxygen contributes to the enrichment of cells
with oxygen. We make a verdict: our skin does not breathe. Skin can’t
perform its functions normally, if air is not supplied to it.
But molecular oxygen in a cream is just a loud use.
biochemical terms for powdering the brain to the consumer.
There is the possibility of over-oxygenation of only damaged tissue.
That is, the stratum corneum must be temporarily penetrating –
- Favorite component of cosmetic manufacturers – collagen.
Collagen is part of anti-aging cosmetics (most
demanded and expensive). With age, the replacement of the elastic
quality collagen on a “defective”, worn collagen. Thats
there is no saying that collagen is produced less. Is changing
its structure and an imbalance in its development: a young
collagen is produced less and less, and everything becomes old
more. And it turns out a large accumulation of amorphous protein with impaired
structure. For the synthesis of new collagen you need
turn to regenerative technologies that stimulate
autologous fibroblasts. Collagen molecule is so
“heavy”, that in the cream, it can not penetrate the skin. By
For this reason, collagen molecules undergo hydrolysis for their better
“assimilation” of the skin.
- Hyaluronic acid is an indispensable component of any
cosmetic cream. But with her not so simple. In order to
she showed her magical properties, it is important to use her
the correct molecular form. In creams use only
low molecular weight form of hyaluronic acid. So she
able to pass through the stratum corneum and manifest its moisturizing
- Phytohormones are a great marketing trap. Favourite
component anti-age (anti-aging) cosmetics. Known that with
over the years, the production of hormones responsible for youth and
beauty of the skin. Their shortage has the worst effect on
woman’s appearance. Use during menopause
hormone replacement substances in the cream – justified and
expedient step. But let’s see what the catch is.
There are phytohormones and phytoestrogens. The meaning of these terms is not
is identical. Phytoestrogens are not hormones, but they
able to reproduce the effect of human estrogen. I.e
are activated in the body, start the process of skin regeneration,
promote the synthesis of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.
Phytohormones are plant hormones. Plants have their own hormones,
which they produce to sustain their
vital functions. Phytohormones have little in common with
phytoestrogens, they absolutely do not possess any
estrogen-like action. For this reason, they never
use with the purpose of replacement of estrogen. Consequently, the cream,
containing phytohormones, do not contribute to skin rejuvenation and improvement
skin parameters. It turns out another publicity stunt and
money thrown away. Phytoestrogens are plant-based.
substances that can reproduce the action of estrogen in
female body. But there is a small but very significant
nuance. Phytoestrogens reveal their actions only in the desired
concentrations and in specific conditions. It is very complex and
time-consuming process that is not so easy to start. To
phytoestrogens showed their hormone-like properties required
concentration a thousand times the concentration of ours
autologous estrogen. Only in this case phytoestrogens will be
effective. But if you just lubricate the skin with this cream, then the benefits
from this there will be no.
- Coenzyme Q10 – found in a huge amount of creams. what
is this drug? Coenzyme Q10 is powerful
antioxidant that prevents the formation of free radicals
in the skin. It also stimulates the process of skin renewal, helps
retain moisture in it. However, the effect of coenzyme Q10 is limited
only the upper layer of the epidermis. That is, he is also not capable
penetrate deep into the skin and neutralize the effect of free
radicals. And Coenzyme Q10 alone is not enough as an antioxidant.
Usually, the maximum effect is given by the use of antioxidants in pairs and
- Most often, fruit acids are used as part of peels and
exfoliants. The feasibility of the use of fruit acids in
creams – causes a lot of controversy. In order to effectively
affect the skin, the content of fruit acids in the cream should
be at least 70%. For cosmetic cream this is unacceptable, so
how sooner or later such a concentration can cause serious
skin damage. Drugs with 5% content of fruit acids –
ineffective, with 10% – are already dangerous. Usually in cosmetic creams,
which can be purchased in stores, contains no more than 3%
fruit acids. Sometimes their content is even less than 3%, which
makes cosmetics with fruit acids completely useless and
Important! When buying collagen and elastin cream, look for
packaging the term “collagen hydrolyzate” “elastin hydrolyzate”.
Remember, in order for the cream to “work” collagen and elastin must
be only in the form of a hydrolyzate. But this does not apply to hyaluronic
acid. Collagen and elastin proteins, they can be subjected to hydrolysis.
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide chemical substance
impossible to hydrolyze.
And only the dose makes it a cure …
We found that the ingredients of cosmetic cream
can really pass the stratum corneum and get inside the skin. AT
In this case, can we say that any cosmetic cream
is an effective cosmetic? Here as always
the devil is in the details.
Of course, a big role is played by the composition of the cream, the chemical form in
which components are presented, their interaction with each other. But
Also important is the dose of the active ingredients in the cream. The thing is
that some components show their active
regenerating properties only in a certain concentration.
Manufacturers should indicate on the packaging the concentration of this or
no other ingredient, but as we see, this does not happen. That’s
it turns out that there are enough active substances in the cream, but they are not
“work”. Above, we gave the example of fruit acids.
Too high a concentration of fruit acids in the cream can cause
skin damage, too low does not have a cosmetic effect.
For this reason, many manufacturers of cosmetics
simply declare the presence of one or another “effective” ingredient
for marketing purposes, knowing exactly what his concentration
not enough for him to be active. Here
Questions arise, what to do and what to do? Look to
Why professional cosmetics
First, in the professional class cosmetics biologically
active substances are in high concentration. And not just in
high, but in the concentration in which they manifest their
Secondly, the substances in such cosmetics are in
appropriate chemical form. Collagen and elastin in the form
hydrolyzate, and hyaluronic acid in low molecular weight form.
Thirdly, there is a deep penetration of active substances into
the hypodermis and even the dermis.
Fourth, the effect of the use of professional cosmetics
noticeable after a week.
Summarizing, we can say that professional cosmetics
It is intended not to disguise problems, but to solve them. Its effectiveness
proven by regular clinical studies
improvements in formulas and composition, using innovative