Nanocosmetics: where to tip the scales?

We live in an amazing time of significant scientific discoveries and
unique technologies. Modern scientific discoveries have affected all
spheres of life, without having avoided the party and cosmetology. Special place in
cosmetology occupy nanotechnology. This term is constantly on
hearing, but what is the essence of nanotechnology, how does it work
nanocosmetics, few people know. In this article we will try
understand what nanocosmetics is,
how safe is it and how effective is it
think.

nanokosmetika


Content

  • What is nanotechnology?
  • Liposomes and nanosomes – what’s the difference?
  • Why use nanosomes in cosmetology?
  • How do nanosomes behave in a cosmetic composition?
  • What usually fill the nanosomes?
  • Effects of nanocomplexes on the skin
  • A spoon of tar in a jar of nanocream
  • Is nanocosmetics dangerous?

What is nanotechnology?

We will first understand the terms: the word nanotechnology consists of
two parts. Prefix “nano” from Greek (“sed”)
translated as a dwarf, that is, something very, very small.
Nanotechnologies are engaged in the knowledge and control of processes in
scale 1 nm. Thus, particles having sizes from 1 to 100
nanometers are called nanoparticles.

In other words, nanotechnologies are technologies of the microworld:
atoms and molecules. This term was first used by the physicist Richard.
Feynman in 1959. But the very prefix “nano” became
use relatively recently. Even 20 years ago, nanotechnology
was not in the arsenal of researchers, but now without nanoparticles
modern science no longer thinks its existence. Nanoparticles
in all its diversity are used primarily in science:
nanotubes, nanowires, fullerenes are used in astronautics,
medicine, biology, physics, etc.

In cosmetology, nanoparticles are used as transport
agents – sediment. To carrier molecules by
modern technologies add active substances and they
delivered by nanosomes to all layers of the skin.


Nanosomes are microscopic empty spheres that
filled with biologically active substances and transported to
the right layers of skin. Nanosomes are the same liposomes, but, compared to
nanosomes, liposomes are just giants. Smallest liposomes
called nanosomes. So these two terms are almost identical,
but there is still some difference between them.

Liposomes and nanosomes – what’s the difference?

Liposomes are an artificially created molecule that represents
by itself, an empty capsule. Liposome can be filled with any active
substances. Its diameter does not exceed 10,000 nanometers.

A nanosome is a more advanced liposome molecule. She possesses
smaller in size and due to this it is able to transport only
one active substance. The nanosome releases its contents
directly in the cage. There are nanocomplexes in the composition
which includes a certain number of nanomolecules, saturated
active substances that need to be delivered to the deep layers of the skin.
Nanocomplexes can be different in configuration, depending on
problems that they have to solve.

Why use nanosomes in cosmetology?

Nanosomes and liposomes are transport agents capable of
deliver drugs deep into the skin without which it is impossible
skin renewal processes. Everyone knows that cosmetic
drugs can not penetrate the deep layers of the skin, they are affected
only on the upper layer of the epidermis. However, the processes that contribute to
skin regeneration, occur in its deepest layers. For this reason
scientists are constantly looking for ways to efficiently deliver active substances
deep into the skin, but so far unsuccessfully. Why? Superficial stratum corneum
epidermis – a reliable protective barrier that does not pass into the body
substances from the outside.


To penetrate the dermis it is necessary to destroy the stratum corneum, which
consists of close-fitting flakes glued together
lipid layer. The active ingredients of the cream possess too
high molecular weight to pass this layer and pass
through the intercellular spaces is not entirely simple. Lipids that
fill these gaps, do not miss the water-soluble compounds.
For this reason, biologically active substances must be
lipophilic, that is, must have the ability to penetrate
lipid layer.

The essence of nanotechnology is to create “biological
containers of microsize allowing passage through
intercellular spaces where their presence is required.

How do nanosomes behave in a cosmetic composition?

Manufacturers of nano-cosmetics with delight to tell consumers
about the magical properties of their products. For example, they
claim that penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, the nanosomes
modify their structure: from two-dimensional to three-dimensional,
releasing the contents into the cell. They also claim that
the process of interaction between the nanocomplex and cellular structures is very
close to the natural process of entering the skin of ingredients from
organism. In the cosmetic composition nanosomes make up half
substances, and the remaining half are biologically active
substances. Also, manufacturers claim that a revolutionary cream with
nanocomplexes do not require the addition of additional substances:
stabilizers, preservatives, emulsifiers, dyes and other
structure-forming components. Since the size of nanoparticles
allows you to keep the cream in its original integrity and even
extend the duration of its activity. Dyes, stabilizers,
preservatives and other auxiliary substances are well known.
allergens, and their absence in nanocrame suggests
hypoallergenic cosmetic product.

What usually fill the nanosomes?

Nanosomes include vitamins, collagen, elastin,
amino acids, hyaluronic acid, enzymes, microelements.
Nanocomplexes are completed with different percentages, in
depending on the tasks that they have to solve. For example,
if nanosomes are part of anti-aging cream, then their
fill with collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and other
substances capable of causing an appropriate cell response.

Effects of nanocomplexes on the skin


Manufacturers of nano cosmetics claim skin condition
improves immediately after the first application of the cream to the skin. Which one
What effect do nanosomes have on the skin? Due to the ability
modify its structure from two-dimensional on the surface of the skin to
three-dimensional inside it, the nanosomes instantly penetrate into the epidermis and
create a structured network there that can instantly
smooth skin, remove fine wrinkles and make less
noticeable large. As a result, all skin conditions are improved.
specifications:

  • improves complexion;
  • decreases the number of wrinkles;
  • soft tissue lifting is observed;
  • its turgor and relief improves;
  • pigment spots disappear;
  • deep skin hydration occurs;
  • skin becomes supple and elastic.

A spoon of tar in a jar of nanocream

Everything that was said above is optimistic and rosy, but
very similar to excerpts from science fiction novels. And now let’s
analyze other points of view and listen to the arguments of scientists and
doctors who doubt the power and safety
nanocosmetics. After all, their doubts and arguments are not devoid of common sense.
meaning. Former Deputy Prime Minister Sergei Ivanov, back in 2008, said such
words: “Nanotechnology mastered only crooks who are with might and main
advertise nanokremy. And no nano is there, just a buzzword
took. “Perhaps a politician somewhat exaggerated, but
absolutely right expressed the main idea. Buying cream with
nanocomplexes, we do not know what we acquire. We can only
believe the producers. And, as you know, manufacturers are not always
honest with consumers, they are capable of a lot when it comes to
retrieving the contents of our wallets. What are the counterarguments
do scientists and doctors bring?

First, in many creams there is no sediment, despite the fact that they
stated in the cream. Nanotechnology is too expensive
pleasure. For research in the field of nano need
modern scientific and technical base, very large funds and
competent specialists. Not every cosmetics company.
capable of producing nanotechnology research and
manipulations. If you suddenly saw in the composition of the cream little-known
firms nanosomes, then often such a statement is
marketing trick. Most likely the nanoparticles are not there.

If you still want to buy a cream with nanocomplexes, then
should look to more expensive and well-known products.
For example, fullerene cream (C-60) for the face of the American
Zelens, or Japanese Nano Pure, based on natural
placenta. These cosmetics are in great demand with
public people and hollywood stars. Japan is the most advanced country
on the level of scientific achievements and nanotechnology research,
Japan has the strictest control
quality of medicines and food. Also
French firms Estee Lauder, L’Oreal, Dior, Lancome Neoglis
produce cosmetic products with nanocomplexes. In countries with
developed economies nano research and nano-development significantly
encouraged and funded by governments.

Secondly, it is not known how the nanosomes will behave in a cream. Their
unpredictable behavior. They may react with other
ingredients of the cream, affecting the cells, organs and systems of the body.
Scientists are still not very well aware of the effect on a living cell and
the body as a whole has nanoparticles. For example, the British
royal environmental commission renders
Verdict: Nanoproducts have the same dangerous properties as
asbestos prohibited for use in construction. It has long been known
that asbestos nanoparticles penetrating into the lungs cause their damage and
lead to the painful death of man. For this reason, in many
In foreign countries, asbestos cement structures are considered dangerous and
are being dismantled.


Thirdly, it is necessary to strictly limit the amount of sediment in
cosmetic composition. Ten years ago, the European Commission
established the allowable number of nanoparticles in a cosmetic
drug. Their number in the cosmetic product should be
around 5%.

Fourth, if the nanosomes penetrate the living layers of the skin, then they
must be certified as drugs. So
Thus, the presence of nanoparticles in the cosmetic composition does not give
manufacturer the right to call it a nanocosmetic means.
Nanopreparations require a long, very serious study and
testing, since cells are able to accumulate nanoparticles, and
this can lead to very serious problems, the scale of which
hard to predict.

Fifth, the prices for nano-cosmetic drugs are transcendental. Everything
innovative technology is big money. All new and
advanced requires additional costs. Nanosome cream not
may be cheap. If you got a cream with nanoparticles
Affordable price, be sure nanoparticles are not there.

Is nanocosmetics dangerous?

Many consumers are interested in how safe
nanocosmetics? In fact, to answer this question is difficult.
Nanotechnology is not well researched yet.
the field of science, and nanocosmetics – high-tech production,
there are many difficulties in its path. For nanoscale
scientific base, state-of-the-art technologies and competent
specialists. Since scientists are only at the beginning of the journey and research
continue, then full confidence in the safety of nanocosmetics
not yet.

For example, scientists are wondering what happens to
nanoparticles after they completed their mission. Some
tend to the fact that nanoparticles have the ability to accumulate
in the body, and their accumulation can lead to unpredictable
the consequences. It is also known that nanoparticles are able to penetrate
through cell membranes, affect the functioning of organs and systems and even
penetrate the bloodstream which can lead to scary and unpredictable
effects.


Scientists conducted the following experiment: human cells
(liver and epithelium) were placed for 48 hours in highly diluted
fullerene solution (carbon nanoform in which atoms are connected
between themselves in a crystal lattice resembling in shape
soccer ball). The results of the experiment struck scientists: absolutely
all cells were destroyed by more than half. It remains sincerely
admire people who pay a lot of money in order to
walk on the edge of the abyss. Use cream with fullerenes – the same
the very thing that carry a time bomb. Unknown
where and when will explode.

Scientists have repeatedly focused public attention on
potential hazards of nanoparticles. Action cosmetics based on them
for the time being it is little studied to bring nanocosmetics to a wide
consumer market. However, many manufacturers, parasitizing on
brand “nano”, lobbying their products, despite
warnings of scientists.

Ten years ago, the European Commission set the permissible
the number of nanoparticles in a cosmetic product: not more than 5%.
Sociological studies in Europe indicate
lack of qualified professionals, so negative
effects of nanoparticles on the environment and humans have
a place.

And in 2009, the European Parliament banned the use of nano-cleaners in
cosmetic preparations, if they exceed the permissible 5% volume.
European legislation demanded by the EU science committee
comprehensive study of the potential risks of using nanoparticles
in cosmetic products. And the European Society for the Protection of Rights
consumers expressed concern that the rules
supervision of cosmetic preparations containing nanoparticles,
should have come into force in 2012, but in consumer
they were in the market long before that.

From the above it can be concluded that the influence
nanoparticles on the human body is still poorly understood.
Nanocosmetics is not as safe as some
manufacturers. No one denies that nanotechnology has a future
but so far in this area long studies are needed and
experiments.

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