Retinoid boom

The composition of many anti-aging creams include essential vitamin
And, or as it is also called – retinol. Because attributed to him
magical properties, preparations based on it gave rise to a lot of myths and
legends, very far from the truth. Cosmetic preparations
containing vitamin A are really very effective and
bring maximum benefit to the skin. But confusion is brought not so much
drugs based on retinol, how many terms denoting different
forms of vitamin A. Retinol, retinoids, retinoic acid – that they
designate? What is the difference between them? These and many other questions.
plagued by uninformed consumers.


  • Retinol and retinoids
  • Biological properties of vitamin A
  • The effect of retinol on the skin
  • What is the danger of retinol?
  • What to look for when using a cream with
  • Retinol myths

Retinol and retinoids

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Vitamin A is contained
only in animal products: egg yolk, beef and pork
liver, fish oil and dairy products. In some vegetables
contains carotenoids, which are provitamin A. Provitamin
A – a substance that when released into our body
converted into vitamin itself. In the cells of the liver and intestinal mucosa
there is a specific carotene dioxygenase enzyme that
promotes the conversion of carotenoids into vitamin A. The richest
Vitamin A vegetables: carrots, pumpkin, paprika, tomatoes.

vitamin a

By itself, vitamin A is very unstable, it is fast
collapses under the influence of the environment (solar
rays and oxygen), losing its beneficial properties. For this reason, in
The composition of cosmetic creams make it in a modified form.
Most often, vitamin A is found in the form of retinol palmitate,
retinol acetate and retinoic acid.

Retinoids are a generic name for cosmetic products close to
in composition to vitamin A and possessing its properties. To retinoids
include all synthetic and natural substances with retinol

All retinoids can be divided into four groups:

The first group or the first generation of retinoids. In this group
includes retinol (Retinol, Vit A), its esters – retinol acetate and
retinol palmitate, retinal, tretinoin, isotretinoin,

The second generation of retinoids is etretinate and

The third generation of retinoids is represented by polyaromatic
compounds. These retinoids are used in cancer

The fourth generation is selective retinoids – recently
synthesized substances with retinoid-like action: tazaroten and

Also retinoids are:

  • natural;
  • synthetic.

Natural retinoids are forms derived from vitamin A.
For example, retinol palmitate and acetate (retinyl palmitate and acetate),
retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin.

Synthetic retinoids – synthesized in laboratories
by artificial means.

nedostatok retinola

Vitamin A exerts its properties and interacts with
receptors only in the form of tretinoin. Natural Retinoids
activates all skin receptors. Synthetic only certain.
It turns out, natural and synthetic forms of vitamin A
activate different receptors, respectively, and the response of cells to their
the impact will be different. Although all these substances are one common
a group called retinoids.

Biological properties of vitamin A

In our body, vitamin A is transformed into retinal and
retinoic acid. These substances are involved in the coordination of a number of
vital functions: in growth and differentiation of cells. Also
they are involved in the regulation of the act of vision. Retinoic acid,
similar to steroid hormones, interact with receptors in
nucleus of cells. The resulting substances are associated with certain
DNA segments and activate gene transcription. As a result
activation of genes, under the influence of retinoic acid, are formed
proteins that affect growth, differentiation, reproduction and
embryonic development.

The effect of retinol on the skin

Vitamin A is an extremely important vitamin for our skin. Scientists
claim to be able to keep the skin young and
promote its regeneration. And indeed it is. And so

First, retinol is a powerful antioxidant that
neutralizes the effect of free radicals.

Secondly, it affects the differentiation of epithelial cells, which
very important for middle-aged skin.

Thirdly, it performs the function of cellular communication,
transmitting information from cell to cell. He stimulates everything
cells, including old and damaged, to regenerate. Great advantage
vitamin A is the property to penetrate the protective barrier
epidermis and “work” in the dermis.

Fourth, with age, the body is less synthesized
collagen and elastin. Vitamin A is able to stimulate this
process, thereby protecting the skin from the appearance of wrinkles.


Fifth, retinol interferes with photo-aging and promotes
update the upper layer of the epidermis.

For this reason, vitamin A is widely used as
active substances in creams and ointments in the treatment of many skin
diseases such as psoriasis, acne, pigmentation.

Many people mistakenly believe that retinol is a peeling agent.
But it is not. With long-term use of cream with retinol skin
really starts to peel off. But it happens because
retinol promotes cell renewal and exfoliation of cornified
scales. It should be remembered that retinol is not an exfoliant and
works as a peeling agent.

What is the danger of retinol?

Unfortunately, retinol has some unpleasant side effects.

  • Retinol can cause an allergic reaction. Some
    Experts say that irritation appeared after
    using creams with retinol is not always an allergy. Often so
    reaction to excessive skin regeneration. In this case
    should choose a cream with a lower dose of retinol, or abandon
    its use.
  • Retinol can cause a photosensitivity reaction.
    Photosensitization is an increased sensitivity to
    ultraviolet radiation. When using cream in day time
    time it can cause irritation and photodermatitis. To this
    avoid if there is a clear allergic reaction, along with
    Retinol cream should use sunscreen.
  • The ability of retinol to activate cell division can
    cause the so-called “withdrawal syndrome”. After active division
    cells may become “tired”, as a result of which the division slows down dramatically, and
    skin begins to age faster. It is recommended to take breaks in 2-3
    month when using cream with retinol.

To avoid side effects, use properly.
cosmetics with retinol.

What to look for when using a cream with


  1. Retinol may have different concentrations. And not always more
    means better. The effect of retinol does not depend on a percentage.
    substances in the cream, and from the capsule. We already wrote above that retinol
    very naughty vitamin. Under the influence of the environment he
    collapses. Therefore, retinol began to “hide” in special capsules,
    which open immediately before applying the drug on
    skin Cream with vitamin A encapsulated even in a small
    concentrations are much more effective than a high percentage of retinol without
    “protection” (capsules).
  2. Preparations with retinol may have different forms. They come in
    as a gel and cream. If the skin is prone to inflammation and
    irritations, it is best to use gel. For dry and
    A normal type of cream will do. Any creams, including those with
    retinol should be in a tube with a small hole or
    glass bottles with dispensers. Cream jars are yesterday’s
    Cosmetology Day. Perhaps they look beautiful on the night
    table but a cosmetic product should only be in
    tube And that’s why. When we open a jar of cream
    a chemical reaction occurs. Under the influence of the environment
    cream components are destroyed, oxidized and completely lose their
    beneficial features. Not only to remove the cream from
    jars should use a spatula, which also harms the cream. BUT
    many do remove the cream with their hands, which is rude
    violation of the rules of antiseptics.
  3. Preparations with retinol have a strong effect. therefore
    it is reasonable to use a small amount of cream at everyday
    applying it to the skin.
  4. The first days of retinol should be applied to the skin no more than once per
    two days. If allergic reactions and irritations are not observed,
    this further use can be increased to once a day for
    night, and then it can be applied during the day. However not worth it
    use cream with retinol is too rare, otherwise the skin does not
    can get used to his action.
  5. Retinol cream is best used before bedtime, due to the ability
    retinol photosensitivity. Some experts tend to
    that retinoids should be used during the cold season,
    when there is no active insolation. Others are inclined to believe that
    modern retinoids can also be used in summer, as they
    affect the skin no more than an ordinary scrub. Only in
    In this case, retinol cream should be used in tandem with

Retinol myths

There are several well-established myths about retinol, which
should be dispelled.


Myth one. Creams with retinoids should be applied only on dry
skin We say right away that in the instructions for use of retinoids
there really is such information. However, there is no
scientific research has proven that you can not put retinol on
wet skin

The second myth. You can not use the cream with retinol in the daytime
due to the risk of sunburn. Indeed it was thought so before.
Now drugs with retinoids act on the skin as weak.
peeling. They can be used in the daytime along with

The third myth. Retinol cream is an exfoliant. This is not true.
It is known that the side effect of a cream with retinol is flaking
skin. And this happens because retinol updates the epidermis for
expense of exfoliation of dead scales. As a result, the external
skin look in all respects.

Myth Four. Retinoid cream can only be used on
night. In order for the skin to get used to retinol the first time it
use for the night and no more than once in two-three days. But after
as the skin has adapted to the cream, it can be used in
daytime, but only in conjunction with sunscreen.

The fifth myth. Cream with retinol can not be applied around the eyes. No one
does not deny that the area around the eyes is the most delicate and tender. But
tests carried out proved that neatly applying the cream around
the eye is not dangerous and does not cause any unpleasant

In conclusion, I want to say that creams with retinoids –
effective drugs that eliminate signs of age
fading skin. The main thing is to comply with all safety rules and
use them correctly.

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