These mighty peptides

In recent years, cosmetics with peptides produced a real boom.
among anti-age cosmetic preparations. I attribute to peptides
miraculous effects and fast rejuvenation. However scientists
skeptical of cosmetic creams with peptides, motivating
This is because most peptide creams do not pass.
due clinical trial. No clinical studies – no
reliable evidence of the effectiveness of cosmetology
drugs. But let’s get everything in order.


  • What are peptides and what are their similarities with proteins
  • What is the advantage of peptides?
  • How to get peptides?
  • What are the disadvantages of creams with peptides?
  • Again, the substitution of concepts
  • Stand behind the price

What are peptides and what are their similarities with proteins

Peptides are the same proteins, only with very short chains.
Proteins are made of amino acids, like a chain of links, and these chains
may have different lengths. Very long chains can have a dozen
links, short – only 2-3 links. Squirrels with very short
links and there are peptides. Because of their short links, peptides
refer to the microworld, and even the nanoworld. Peptides can contain
several amino acid residues. For example, 2 amino acid
residue is called a dipeptide, 3 residue is called a tripeptide, if
several amino acid residues – oligopeptide. In the body
peptides perform a signal function: they transmit information from
cells to cell and adjust their work.


Proteins and peptides are very similar. Both proteins and peptides are chains.
amino acids. The difference between the two is the length of the amino acid
chain and biological activity.

Proteins – high-molecular compounds consisting of chains
amino acids linked by a peptide bond. All proteins are peptides,
consisting of amino acid residues. In another way, proteins are also called
polypeptides. Proteins play an important role in the cell: they perform
energy exchange. In cosmetology, important proteins are
collagen and elastin. They are responsible for resilience and elasticity.
our skin. But the main problem is that collagen
and elastin have a high molecular weight, which does not allow them
pass through the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

What is the advantage of peptides?

Both proteins and peptides are composed of amino acids. Short chain of
Amino Acids is a peptide. A long chain of amino acids is already
protein. The sequence of amino acids in the chain depends on which
protein is obtained. If at least one changes in this sequence
amino acid, the whole structure of the protein changes completely. Other
in words, it turns out a new protein. For example, imagine that
protein from several polypeptides is a specific word.
Mix the letters in the word and arrange them in an arbitrary
okay It turns out that the meaning of the word changes completely. Speaking
more precisely, there is no point at all, despite the fact that the letters are the same and
their number has not changed. The new word is the same squirrel, but not
bearing no meaning.

Scientists argue that if combined correctly
amino acid sequence and enter such a combination into
organism, then peptides are able to coordinate regenerating
processes in cells and tissues. And if you form an amino acid
sequence at random then it will constitute
meaningless protein not performing any function in
the body.

Many scientists are inclined to believe that peptides are so
effective that are able to completely replace protein in aesthetic
medicine. An important role is played by the molecular weight of the peptides. They are much
less protein, thus able to easily pass through the horny
layer the epidermis, reach deep into the dermis and regulate
exchange processes in it. In cosmetology, it is believed that the main
peptides are distinguished by their reliable and controlled
biological activity. Unlike amino acids and proteins,
which theoretically can also be active, but because of the large
molecular weight proteins cannot penetrate the skin, and
amino acids are too simple to be active in
cosmetic preparation.

How to get peptides?

A lot of people are interested in the question, where do peptides come from? Peptides

  • method of artificial synthesis;
  • protein cleavage method.

Due to the high popularity of peptides in the cosmetic market
the process of their synthesis cannot meet the demand for them. Presently
peptides are obtained using a special apparatus — an automatic
synthesizer. With it, you can get virtually any peptides,
and even those that are not synthesized in a living organism. Should
note that chemically synthesized peptides do not contain
harmful impurities, have greater chemical purity than
peptides obtained during protein digestion.

What are the disadvantages of creams with peptides?

However, with all the miraculous properties of peptides, physicians
add a fly in the barrel of honey, not sharing optimism about
their actions in a cosmetic product. Despite the microscopic
weight of peptides, experts doubt whether omnipotent peptides will reach
to the main goal. The grounds for skepticism were numerous
studies that have proven that using peptides as
nutritional supplement gives a greater effect than their use in
cosmetic preparation. In this case, it is better to eat than
to smear.

Also, experts say that the peptides themselves are not
able to penetrate deep into the skin, but in tandem with fatty acids
(for example, palmitic and stearic acid) they can
safely pass the protective barrier of the skin. It turns out that laurels
championships do not always belong to peptides. In the case of peptides,
as with stem cells, a big role is played by the composition of the cream and
activity of other ingredients included in it. Good
cosmetic formula allows all components of the cream to act
together, while enhancing the properties of each other. And again
A number of questions arise: only peptides have a unique
action or is it merit and other components of the cream? And as far as
peptides are able to “work” independently in cosmetic
compositions? Scientists tend to believe that the entire effect of peptides is related
with a well-known “placebo effect”.

And the most important argument that scientists cite is
the complexity of the selection of the desired peptide sequence. I.e
There are 20 standard amino acids from which you can
form three million peptide sequences. With this
a huge variety is quite difficult to choose the desired chain.
Unfortunately, no matter what miraculous qualities
peptides, they are still poorly understood. Not yet effective
peptide testing techniques, for example, there is no way to test whether
how cells are restored under the influence of peptides. Scientists
claim that most peptide creams do not allow
reliably assess their effect on the body. Because of
they do not undergo the necessary clinical studies.

But here you can argue with the doctors: cosmetic preparations are not
are medicine. They should not penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin.
Their workplace is the epidermis. In that case, why all the hype
about the omnipotence of peptides? When the easiest cream with
The classic formula is capable, and it is proven, to improve the condition

Again, the substitution of concepts

Some confusion with peptides is made by the manufacturers themselves. Part
creams they introduce the term peptides, calling them protein hydrolyzate. On
In fact, protein hydrolyzate is a mixture of peptides, protein,
amino acids. Hydrolyzate is a substance obtained by hydrolysis.
What is hydrolysis? This is the destruction of the protein, as a result of which
get amino acid hydrolysates containing peptides,
amino acids and other components.

Cosmetic cream with peptides should contain on the package
reliable information about peptides. Must be designated:
peptide concentration and properties, peptide chain sequence
and its length. But this, as we note, no. For this reason, creams,
containing peptides, cause great doubt: peptides there on
really or just a good cosmetic cream formula.

Stand behind the price

Not every cosmetics company is able to produce
technological manipulations with peptides. It takes good
equipped base, state-of-the-art technology and competent
staff. These conditions can not comply with the ordinary company for
production of cosmetic products. They can only use
limited set of peptides due to their high cost. But as far as
justified such a high price of peptide cream? Or is it
another marketing trap for cosmetics manufacturers

Chemical engineer Margarita Faustova, referring to Forbes magazine,
did some interesting research trying to figure out how
high prices for peptide cosmetics are justified. In his study
she brought the most expensive cosmetics, matching them
price, composition and effect of the components. The research results were
very interesting.

So why creams with peptides have such a high
at the cost of?

First, in addition to peptides, the cream contains expensive and
unique ingredients such as: chicken bone marrow,
silk proteins, ursolic acid, exotic extracts
plants from different parts of the world, crushed pearls, gold,
platinum, caviar and other components. The price of the drug included
in addition to the cost of manufacture of the drug, considerable transport

Secondly, the price includes the use of expensive scientific
equipment, the wages of scientists creating cosmetic
composition. If we are talking about peptides, then the search for the necessary
amino acid sequence is very time consuming and complex
process. It is clear that the financial costs in this case will be very

Third, considerable expenses are spent on advertising and the purchase of stellar ones.

Fourthly, expenses for several years add to expenses.
Forward: Future research and high costs.

Hence, the impressive final price for a cosmetic product.
No one says that such a cream will be ineffective. On the contrary he
very effective and truly capable of quality
affect the skin. Just do not forget that
it will affect the upper layer of the skin – the epidermis. But this
quite important. A good cream should, first of all,
create a feeling of comfort and lightness. But whether to spend on him so
fabulous money must be decided by the consumer himself, without deception and
not being in illusion.

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